From a Times Insider column by Emmett Linder headlined “Pete Wells’s Search for the Perfect Bite”:

On a sunny, warm Thursday evening in Bushwick, Brooklyn, across the street from a vintage furniture store and next to a locally owned thrift shop, Pete Wells walked into Eyval, a Persian restaurant, for the second time.

He planned to go back once more — Mr. Wells dines multiple times at each place he reviews to try as much of the menu as possible and to sort the genius from the strokes of luck.