How Do Certain Foods Become National Dishes?

From a New York Times book review by Irina Dumitrescu headlined “How Do Certain Foods Become National Dishes?”:

“We have a compulsion to tie food to place,” Anya von Bremzen writes in her new book, but that compulsion, it turns out, has more to do with myth and marketing than with historical fact. “National Dish” is the story of her quest to understand why certain foods, like pizza, ramen and tapas, are adopted as symbols of their places of origin.