From a Times Insider column by Josh Ocampo headlined “For a Wine Critic, Experience Ages Well”:

Boxed wine. Nonalcoholic wine. Even weed wine. Wine isn’t exactly what it used to be.

Perhaps no one knows that better than Eric Asimov, the wine critic for The New York Times. In his 25 years of swirling, sniffing, sipping and writing about wine, Mr. Asimov has seen trends come and go, from the polarizing rise of natural wines to the fervor for rosé all day.